Selecting Bathroom Fixtures:Sinks and Faucets
Lavatories, Basins and Commodes
Porcher drop-in sink The classic drop-in lavatory sink from Porcher. If you are wondering what the distinction is between a lavatory, commode, basin and sink, the answer is: not much. They all mean "bathroom sink" and are pretty much used interchangeably. A commode is typically a sink mounted on or in a cabinet. A commode cabinet is designed to look like furniture and the term commode is often used to refer to the cabinet rather than the sink itself. Lavatory and basin refer only to bath sinks. The word "sink" means all of these but when professionals use the term to describe a bath sink it typically refers to a sink not mounted in a cabinet, for example a pedestal or wall sink. However, where you live, the terms may be used differently. So that's the difference. As we said, not much. You can use basin, bathroom sink and lavatory to mean a sink used in a bathroom. Everyone will understand what you mean.

Countertop Sinks: Drop-In, Undermount and Set-On Mounting
Some bath basins are designed to be set in, on or under a countertop. The classic drop-in or self-rimming sink sits in a hole in the countertop with a lip protruding above the countertop. This is the basic bathroom sink: the most widely available type of sink, the easiest sink to install and the least expensive to buy.

The undermount variety sits under the countertop. These are Vessel Sink Vessel sink mounted on a wood console. Vessel sinks fit well in small baths. preferred by many homeowners over the drop-in style because it is easy to sweep countertop debris into the sink without negotiating the lip of the sink. The limitation of these sinks is that the countertop must be a premium material like stone or composite. There are undermount kitchen sinks (often called integrated sinks) for laminate countertops like Formica©, but is as of yet no integrated bath sinks. It's just a matter of time, however. Undermount sink Kohler Caxton sink undermounted in a marble countertop.

The set-on basin or vessel sink (also called a table top or top-mount sink) is both the oldest and newest version of the countertop-mounted sink. Designed to look like a bowl sitting on a table top, it emulates the pitcher and dry-sink combination from pre-running-water days, but is a fully functioning sink. It started as a sort of fad, but now has been around long enough that any suggestion of fadishness is long gone. Vessel sinks are useful in small baths where their minimal size can make the room appear larger, and for mounting a sink under a low window, there is nothing more useful. See Redefining the Arts & Crafts Bath for a good example of using vessel sinks to fit under a large window.

Pedestal Sinks
These sinks are supported on a narrow base called a pedestal, but also typically attached to the wall. The base hides the sink's plumbing. Pedestal sinks are generally considered better around children than wall-hung sinks - which makes us wonder why school sinks are almost always of the wall-hung variety. The base supports the sink so it cannot be easily torn from the wall. Pedestal sink The classic vitreous china pedestal sink from American Standard.

Wall mounted lavatory Contemporary wall-mounted glass sink from Kohler. Wall-Mounted Sinks
As the name suggests, these sinks are mounted to strong brackets in the wall. They have no base support at all. Plumbing is usually exposed, so it has to be neatly done. However, some wall-mounted sinks include a pipe-shield that covers the plumbing. If the desired look is minimalist or you need to minimize the size of fixtures in a small bath, wall-mount sinks are worth a good look. In glass versions, they almost disappear.

Sink Materials
The most common bathroom sink material is glazed vitreous china. It is tough, durable and sanitary, and needs only the most minimal of care. But sinks can, and in fact are, made of just about any material that will hold water. The only requirements are that it be somewhat resistant to physical damage, and very resistant to corrosion. Some materials are definitely upscale, and sinks made from them are very pricey. But most materials are intended to compete with the standard vitreous china sink in price, so most are well within reach, even if the reach is a little of a stretch. here are some of the more common materials:

Copper lavatory sink A hand hammered copper drop-in lavatory. Vitreous China and Fireclay. Vitreous china, also called porcelain and chinaware, is made out of ceramic clay fired at a very high temperature to form a non-porous body then coated coated with ceramic glaze which is fused to the body. This glaze is actually glass Cast iron lavatory sink from Kohler Cast-iron and enamel vanity sink from Kohler. and is very impervious to water. This process is used to make a number of bathroom fixtures such as toilets, bidets, and sinks as well as ceramic and porcelain tile and dishware. Vitreous china sinks are very sanitary, cannot corrode, last for centuries with proper care, and are by far the most common sinks available. But, they are susceptible to damage from heavy impact.

Fireclay is really just another name for vitreous china. The manufacturing process is virtually the same. Real fireclay is used to make highly fire-resistant materials like bricks used to line fireplaces and clay crucibles to hold molten steel. Obviously, no sink is ever going to need such incredible resistance to heat. In reality fireclay is just a marketing term, adopted from England where vitreous china is commonly called fireclay when used to make kitchen sinks. Folklore has it that fireclay sinks have a red or rust colored body, while vitreous china sinks are white or tan. If this ever was true, it is not true any longer.

Stainless Steel, Copper and Zinc Stainless steel is rust resistant, durable and, lightweight. Most stainless steel sinks are made by punching the shape of the sink into a sheet of heavy-gauge steel sheets, then polishing the resulting sink by hand. Stainless steel sinks resist damage from impacts, but can be dented.

Concrete lavatory A concrete countertop with integrated concrete sink from Sonoma Cast Stone. Both copper and zinc are naturally resistant to corrosion. Copper is a favored material of artisans who hand-craft sinks. Zinc was used for early sinks during the Victorian and early Arts & Crafts period, and is still a good choice when reproducing the bathrooms of these periods. Both materials require more maintenance than stainless steel. Both are softer, and dent easier. But, typically these hand formed sinks were hammered into shape rather than pressed by machine, and are likely to contain hammer marks that will hide any inadvertent dents.

Composites and Solid Surfacing. Composite is just another name for plastic, but not just any plastic. The material used in sinks is very dense, stain and water resistant and very durable. It may be possible to damage a composite sink, but it will take a hammer and some determination. You may be familiar with "cultured marble" which is actually a composite plastic material. Many solid surfacing countertop manufacturers make sinks that exactly match their countertop materials. Solid surfacing, like cultured marble, is a form of plastic composite. Composite sinks do scratch and any cleaner with scrubbing powder should be avoided. Glass vessel sink Stylish red glass vessel sink by Rosso Veneziano for Boxart.

Cast Iron. Both Kohler and American Standard got their start in the 1800s when they figured out the chemistry of bonding glass to cast iron to make easy-to-clean hog watering troughs. Farmers almost immediately decided that they made even better bathtubs — why waste such good technology on hogs? So the clawfoot bathtub was born. The same technology is used to bond glass to cast iron sinks. The glass is typically called porcelain or enamel glazing. Heavy and durable (some have been in use for 150 years), the glazing can be chipped, but chips are reparable.

Limestone wall-mount lavatory by B Dutch Wall-mount carved limestone basin from B Dutch. Glass. Glass is a common material for vessel and wall-mount sinks. A glass sink can contain a beautiful array of colors and hues that do interesting things to light when water runs through it. Many are really minor works of art. But most glass sinks are just clear glass. The thick tempered glass materials they are made of is very durable, easy to clean and won't stain. It will break if hit hard enough, but that's pretty rare.

Natural Stones and Concrete. All of these material will hold water, but they are porous, and require considerable maintenance to retain their new look over time. Granite, soapstone, limestone and marble are the natural stones most often used to make sinks. Of these, granite is the most durable. The high density of granite make this kitchen sink scratch-, chip- and heat-resistant to 535 degrees Fahrenheit — not much of an issue in a bathroom, but a kitchen is a different story. Limestone is more porous than granite. Like marble, it is not at all resistant to acids which can permanently mar the material. Marble is probably the material the first stone sinks were made out of. It is a soft stone and fairly easy to carve with hand tools, but it stains easily. However, with periodic re-polishing, it can last for centuries — it fact marble sinks sever hundred years old are still in use. All natural stone sinks require sealing and routine maintenance to keep their good looks. Once one of these sinks is stained, the stain is usually permanent.

Soapstone is a little different from other stone materials. It is a very soft stone that stains easily, but to soapstone aficionados, the staining is part of the allure, creating a patina from use that adds to the natural beauty of the stone.

Concrete is the newest material to be made into sinks. It is usually found as a countertop or vessel sink or integrated into a concrete countertop. Like natural stone it needs to be sealed to maintain its stain-resistance, and the sealing chemical has to be reapplied regularly. The concrete used is not what you see in your sidewalk. It is a special high density material used for countertops. Every maker has its own secret concrete recipe, but they all seem to produce much the same result. Concrete can chip as well as stain, and once chipped is difficult to repair. invisibly.

What to Look For
Size. If your bathroom is small, you may not have room for a standard drop-in bowl and cabinet; a pedestal sink or wall-mounted sink may be a better choice.

Surface space. Ensure there is enough space for toothbrushes, eyeglasses, soap, and so on. This is especially important if you're considering a pedestal or wall-mounted sink, since you may not have a countertop surface nearby. A glass shelf installed above the sink is a good idea where more surface space is needed.

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 Parts of a lavatory faucet. Diagram courtesy Delta Faucets. Click to Enlarge Click to Enlarge

 Parts of a lavatory faucet. Diagram courtesy Delta Faucets. Ease of Cleaning. How easy is the sink to maintain? Good quality vitreous china fixtures — the normal material for sinks and basins — are easy to keep clean. But if you are considering another material such as glass, keep in mind that it may not be so easy to keep spotless. Cultured marble and solid surfacing materials, for instance, although not easy to stain, will not stand hard scrubbing if they do get stained.

Style. Sinks and basins come as plain or as fancy as you want. Ornate pedestal sinks, art-glass basins, and cultured marble vanity tops with integral sink basins are all available. A wide variety of colors are also available, and basins can even be custom-crafted by glass or ceramic artists.

Faucets For much more on faucets, including ratings and reviews, don't miss Sources of Supply: Faucets.
A bathroom faucet gets a real workout. The water is turned on and off as often as 40 times each day which is 15,000 cycles each year or about 200,000 cycles for the lifetime of the faucet. Yet, most faucets will perform flawlessly for years, in fact, some of the better faucets will outlive you and your house. Your can buy a faucet for as little as $20.00 or as much as $25,000. On average, expect to spend about $200.00-300.00 for an all brass faucet with a good ceramic value. Be leery of any faucet with plastic or zinc parts. These do not last like brass and stainless steel.

There are so many kinds of bathroom faucets, that it is hard to know where to begin. Faucets can be classified in any number of ways: where they are mounted, how they are mounted, the kind of valve, the number of handles, style, and finish, just to name a few.

Faucet Types
Let's start with type of faucet. There are three basic types. Double-spout, two-handle and single handle.

Double spout faucet in chrome with porcelain lever handles Double-spout faucet is actually two separate faucets, one for hot water and one for cold water. Temperature mixing occurs in the sink. Double-Spout The double-spout is the oldest style of faucet It is actually two faucets, one for hot water and one for cold. The individual faucets control only water volume. Temperature mixing occurs in the bowl, not inside the faucet. This type of faucet is appropriate, if at all, only in period designs. The hot water spout can dispense very hot water and is not a good idea for households with children.

Double handle traditional faucet in chrome from Delta Faucets Two-handle faucet from Delta Faucets. Temperature blending occurs inside the body of the faucet. Two-handle faucets Two handles control the flow of water to a single spout. The right handle controls the cold water, the left handle the hot water. The water is then mixed inside the faucet to the temperature desired, and flows then from the single spout. These offer a traditional look. Handle and spout styles vary widely to suit the look of your bath. Two-handle faucets are available in two "sets". The normal set is on 4" centers measured from the center of the cold water handle to the center of the hot water handle. These faucets are usually call 4" centerset, or just centerset. Most sinks are pre-drilled for this 4" standard set. There is also an 8" widespread faucet. These are less common and usually slightly more expensive, but preferred for heritage bathrooms in houses predating 1945.

Delta single-handle faucet Delta Faucets. single handle faucet. One handle controls both water volume and water temperature. Single-handle faucets Faucets with a single-handle control provide a more streamlined look and greater universal access for persons of all ages and abilities. The single-handle design is usually preferred for users with limited ability to grasp objects. A (usually) ceramic valve inside the faucet is operated by the single handle to control both water volume and water temperature. The handle is usually incorporated into the body, but some designs include a separate handle mounted in a separate hole.

Faucet Mounting
Moen T617ORB Wall-Mount Faucet Wall-mounting lavatory faucet from Moen. Lavatory faucets can be mounted either in the wall behind the lavatory, through holes cast or drilled into the sink itself or in a countertop.

Wall-mounting. Wall mounted faucets are popular because they are easier to keep clean and free up countertop space. With vessel sinks, wall mounting is often the best option, especially where countertop space is limited. But wall mounting requires pipe to be run inside a wall, which means it is not suitable for exterior walls in cold climates where the pipes might freeze without special preparation.

Deck-mounting. More commonly, lavatory faucets are mounted through the countertop or through holes cast into the sink itself. This style of mounting is called deck mounting. If the faucet is mounted through the countertop, the plumber will drill the appropriate number and size of holes when he or she installs the faucet. Mounting holes in the sink cannot be drilled at installation. They must be cast into the sink when it is made. There may be as few as one or as many as five mounting holes. Mounting holes are usually called "drillings" even through Toto widespread three-hole deck mount faucet Three-hole widespread deck mounted faucet from Toto. they are usually not actually drilled. Three drillings is the most common number, which fits the most common faucet configuration. But there can be as many as five and as few as one. The fourth and fifth holes are for soap and lotion dispensers - nothing to do with the faucet, except you will probably want to match the style of the dispensers to your faucet. Most faucet companies make that easy by providing dispensers that coordinate with their faucet lines. Newport Brass bridge two-hole faucet Two-hole bridge faucet from Newport Brass.

You have to match the number of holes in your sink to the number required by your faucet, which is why it is a good idea to pick a sink first, then a faucet to match. There are more faucets then there are sinks. But the good news is that almost every faucet can be adapted to fit the three-hole sink, even though it actually needs just one or two holes. The way this is done is with a cover plate or escutcheon. The plate conceals the unused holes. But, for a cleaner, more contemporary look, select a sink that has a single faucet hole so the cover plate is unnecessary. Almost all single hole faucets can be mounted with or without the cover plate.

Two-hole faucets are rare. Most are styled for heritage bathrooms. Typically a pipe or "bridge" connects the hot and cold water valves, and the spout extend from the bridge. The style was popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Two-hole sinks are even rarer, so it is common to use a three-hole sink and cover the center hole or use it to hold the knob that operates the pop-up sink stopper. Kraus Millennium Single Hole Vessel Faucet Single hole Millennium Vessel faucet from Kraus.

Faucet Materials
Brass. Most faucets are made of brass and steel. Brass is easy to cast and machine and lasts a good long time. It does not rust in water, so it is the metal that water touches. Steel is used for those few parts that do not touch water and where greater strength is needed than brass can provide.

Price-Pfister ceramic faucet valve A ceramic valve cartridge from Price-Pfister faucet. Valve cartridges differ from company to company, so usually you must order a replacement from the manufacturer of your faucet. Stainless Steel. Stainless is as durable and long-lived as brass. It is a lot harder to work with than brass, so solid stainless steel faucets tend to be more expensive than brass faucets. Some faucet companies make only stainless faucets, for example, faucets from MGS Progetti. Stainless faucets usually come in one finish — stainless. The advantage is that since the finish is the faucet, the finish cannot wear off.

Plastic and Zinc. These are the least durable faucets. Since, on the outside they often look like more expensive brass or stainless faucets, its not always easy to tell when a faucet is mostly plastic or zinc. Weight in one way. A solid brass or stainless steel faucet is heavy, a plastic or zinc faucet is not.

Faucet Valves
The valves hidden inside the faucet are what actually control water volume and temperature. They are the most critical part of a faucet. If the valve fails, the faucet is useless until it is replaced. So the trick to getting a happy, Zen-like coexistence with your faucet is to select one with an excellent valve. Price-Pfister ceramic faucet valve A ceramic valve cartridge from Price-Pfister faucet. Valve cartridges differ from company to company, so usually you must order a replacement from the manufacturer of your faucet.

Modern valve assemblies are built as a unit called a cartridge. The cartridges encloses all of the working parts of the valve in a single unit, making it easier to replace. Valves can be made of plastic, metal or ultra hard ceramic. Choose ceramic. Ceramic valves almost never leak and are not affected by hard water deposits. Metal is the next best. Some modern metal valves are, in fact, giving ceramics a run for their money. And, unlike ceramic valves, metal valves do not crack if they snag a piece of debris that might have been leftover from installation. Avoid plastic valves unless your idea of a good time is crawling under the sink, wrench in hand, to replace them.

Faucet Finishes
Since native brass tends to turn green after a while, and requires almost daily maintenance, most brass faucets are coated with some sort of finish, typically another metal, but not necessarily. If brass is left native, it is still clear-coated so it does not have to be polished continuously. Most brass finishes are highly polished, but brushed and satin finishes are also available. If the faucet is something other than bright brass, for example antique brass or weathered brass, then most commonly the finish is applied over the brass faucet just as any other metallic finish is applied. Elizabethan Classic Brass Lavatory Faucet Highly polished brass lavatory faucet from Elizabethan Classics.

Chrome. The original faucet finish in wade use was nickel. In the 1930s chromium, or what we now call just chrome, began replacing less durable nickel and quickly became the new standard. Tough, tarnish resistant and durable, bright, polished chrome is the single most popular faucet finish today. Moen Bronze Centerset Lavatory Faucet Oil-rubbed bronze finish centerset lavatory faucet from ,

Nickel. Nickel originally fell out of favor as a faucet finish because it is a soft metal that easily wears off the faucet, exposing the brass beneath. With improvements in metallurgy and new methods of applying nickel to brass, nickel has seen a resurgence as a faucet finish. Highly polished and brushed finishes are the most popular. Brushed finishes have the advantage of not showing water spots as easily as polished finishes. Hammered nickel is a popular finish for Arts & Crafts and Mission style baths, but works in any rustic setting.

Bronze. Bronze is also a perennial favorite faucet finish. Bronze can come in a variety of shades that vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Basic bronze is usually lighter than oil-rubbed bronze (which is, of course, neither oiled nor rubbed), and some bronze finishes are almost black. So if you order your bath fixtures and accessories from different suppliers, make sure the bronze finishes match.

Much More On Faucets
Click to go to "Sources of Supply: Faucets" Looking for that special faucet for your bath?

Don't miss Sources of Supply: Faucets. Dozens of faucet manufacturers discussed and rated. Copper. Copper can be applied to brass as a finish, but most copper faucets are actually made of copper. Copper is a component of brass, and although softer than brass, it still works well as a faucet material. The advantage of a solid copper faucet is that the finish cannot wear off since the faucet is the finish.

Gold. Because it is expensive, gold is rarely used as a faucet finish, but all major manufacturers offer it as a finish option. Bright and shiny, it just screams opulence, and for the classic boudoir look, is indispensable.

Non-Metallic. In addition to the classic metal finishes, faucets can be finished in most colors of the rainbow. Nearly every major manufacturer offers black, but after that the colors available vary widely. Non-metallic colors are typically applied using powder coating. Some faucets, however, are essentially pottery. They are made of vitreous china just like sinks (see above), and can be glazed to exactly match your sink. At least one manufacturer, Kohler, offers china faucets in the same colors as its chinaware.

Finish Technology
How a faucet finish is applied makes a big difference to the durability of the finish. Three methods are commonly in use: electroplating, physical vapor deposition (PVD), and powder coating.

Powder Coating. Powder coating is a process of applying pigmented finishes to a faucet. The dry pigments are usually sprayed onto the faucet, the baked at about 400°F to set the coating. This causes the powder particles to melt and flow. The result is a glossy, tough, durable finish originally developed for marine applications that resists corrosion for many years.

Electroplating. Electroplating is the old standard. This involves immersing the faucet and the metal to be plated in an acid then applying an electrical charge to both objects so metallic ions are drawn from the plating metal and deposited on the faucet. If the faucet is left in the solution longer, the plating is thicker. Thicker plating lasts longer. Some metals cannot be plated directly to brass, so an intermediate metal, called an undercoating, such as nickel is applied first, then the finish metal.

Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD). PVD is the latest space-age technology, rapidly replacing electroplating as the finish technology of choice. It involves vaporizing metallic atoms in a vacuum then depositing the atoms onto the faucet. Atoms are deposited in a very dense film, so the coating can be very thin — most are .05 microns or less — but still be very durable. PVD finishes are 23 times more resistant to wear than the old standard chrome electroplated finish.

Wall-mount generic automatic faucet Generic wall-mount automatic faucet made by Xiamen Sanitary Ware Co., Ltd and sold in the U.S. under various brand names. Almost any inorganic material that can be reduced to atoms can be deposited using PVD, and the object being coated does not have to be metal. Its possible to deposit chrome on plastic using PVD, which it what makes inexpensive plastic faucets look more expensive. Undercoating is usually not required, although some processes use a nickel undercoating which manufacturers claim results in a stronger, most lustrous finish.

The disadvantage of PVD is the cost. There is a very high initial investment for the equipment, and the process is relatively slow compared to electroplating, so it takes longer and costs more. So, expect to pay 20%-25% more for a PVD finish over electroplating. For your money, however, you get a truly lifetime finish.

Hands-Free, Automatic Faucets
Faucets that turn themselves on and off have been around for years in public lavatories. One of two technologies is involved; the first is an electric eye that senses when you approach the faucet, and the second is the same technology used to turn lamps on and off by touch. A sensor in the faucet senses the small electrical current present in your hand or arm when you touch the faucet, and turns it on or off. The electric eye technology is not particularly suitable for home use, but the touch sensor technology is gaining in popularity. Only the on/off process is affected. You still have to set the water volume and temperature manually. For individuals with limited hand movement, this technology can be a Godsend. For the rest of us, we are not at all convinced that these faucets are useful enough to be worth the extra cost. All require electricity; some are wired into the house circuit, but most are battery-powered and the batteries have to be replaced at least once a year, and sometimes more frequently. Changing batteries may require a spelunking expedition into the dark recesses under the sink — not for the faint of heart. Still, almost every manufacturer is now offering them, so apparently someone finds them useful. The most established manufacturer is Sloan Valve, well know in the industry for its automatic faucets for public washrooms, hotels and restaurants, who makes the widest range of automatic faucets.

What to Look For When Buying a Faucet
First, Pick a Sink. The size, shape and hole drilling of your sink will narrow your faucet choices.

Check Faucet Ratings. Check our our faucet ratings. These give you a good idea of the general quality of faucets made by dozens of manufacturers. The ratings will help you focus on the type, style, quality and price range of the faucet you want. Buy in Person. The internet is great, but if you actually visit home centers and kitchen showrooms you will have a better idea of color, size and shape of your faucet. Plus, you can't test a faucet over the internet. Check that the handles work freely without any hitch or hesitation, which may indicate a bad valve.

Measure the Spout. If you are using a vessel sink, make sure the spout will clear the rim of the bowl and has a long enough reach. You want to deliver water to the back half of the bowl so the faucet does not get in your way and you want to verify that the spout is long enough to actually reach the bowl. You'd be surprise how often people forget that.

Check for Adequate Clearance and Cleanability. If there is not enough clearance behind and on both sides of the faucet, you will not be able to use it without scraping your knuckles, and it will be very difficult to clean. Beware of intricate embossing and filigree. You have to clean all of those minute recesses. Select a faucet that matches your style, but still is easy to clean.

Look for Ceramic Valves: Ceramic valve cartridges virtually eliminate drips and leaks caused by worn-out innards. Not that ceramic is risk free. The material is brittle and can be damaged by careless installation. But if it's going to fail, it will usually go within the first 90 days. If your favorite faucet does not come with a ceramic cartridge, opt for the second best stainless steel or brass cartridge. You will get at least 10 years of service out of a metal cartridge. Avoid plastic cartridges. Some manufacturers have started using plastic, and claim they are as good as metal or ceramic. We don't think so. While there may come the day when plastic is actually on par with ceramic and metal it certainly is not here yet.

Choose a Qualify Faucet With a Durable Finish Good faucets are made of stainless steel or brass. Either material works well. Faucets with plastic or zinc parts are unlikely to work as well or last as long. Choose a PVD finish if one is available. The extra cost is nothing compare to the extra years the finish will last.




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